Diesel-ашишта vs Benzin-чиња

[LosiPatista]

Бензинче на плин од 2000та година:

Seat Cordoba 1.4 60HP (половно возило од увоз од Словенија)
Кога ја купи татко ми и ми даваше да ја возам, а немав возено други возила освен Фичо, Југо итн. за мене колава беше сон.
Кога положив и извозив повеќе коли, сфатив дека колава е ЛИМЕНКА, во права смисла на зборот.
Опрема - НИШТО. Се вози на плин, единствена работа е што е до негде да речам економична. Троши 8 литра плин.
Ама за жал на отворено кога претицуваш без да смениш брзина скоро и е невозможно. Над 90 кога возиш веќе е бучен моторот, а држење темпо 120/140 е веќе скапо за џебот оти тогаш троши 13-15 литра...
Дефекти што јас ги знам од кога е купена:
Палење (цел сет рикна)
Бомбина
2 Сета Ламела
5 сајли за кумплуг (се додека не наместивме некоја оргинална самоштелувачка што фала богу функционира)
Шминкање ( полумесеци рѓосани )
3 пати МАП СЕНЗОР за плин. (200 евра потрошени само на мап сензори -.-)
Пумпа за гориво
2 грани за издув и на крај комплетно нов издув
Во принцип не би се жалел оти татко ми ја одржава, да беше моја веќе ќе ја возеше некој друг, ама барем имам нешто да возам, се надевам за некоја година ќе можам да си купам сам тоа што си го имам замислено, па и ќе го претставам овде.. Засега ќе терам со упаљачов

[tjolie]

Имаше еден член напишано еднаш, ако неќете колата да ви троше, паркирајте ја во гаража и не ја возете. Ајде по милионити пат, дизел се возе кај нас, оти поефтин е дизелот од бензинот и повеќе се осеќа на џеб бензинец отколку дизелаш. АМА кога ке дојде ред да се расипе дел, гледате прво ако можете да ја продадете ЗОШТО деловите за дизел се МНОГУ поскапи и бензинците повеќе трпат(поиздржливи) и се поефтини во однос на дизел моторите. Тоа е тоа што 90% го знаат и мислат истото, ама инатот и гордоста на дизелашите е преголема(балканец.).

[LosiPatista]

Џоле, искрено, не си поправал кола, нели.

[tjolie]

Не сум, ама кажи дали горниот текст е лага? И ако е лага, кој дел е лага?

[LosiPatista]

Затоа што си искрен, ќе бидам добар со тебе
Дизелот е подобар во се.  Перформанси, издржливост, економичност, поправки.  Maaни се поголема бучност и вибрации, но тоа средува со 6 или повеќе цилиндри, па тогаш останува само поголемата маса единствен недостаток, што доаѓа до израз само на стаза.

[Simo - Carrier159]

Ако мааните ги средиш со 6 или повеќе цилиндри, опрости се од економичност и ефтини поправки

[velestrumf]

Бензинче на плин од 2000та година:

Seat Cordoba 1.4 60HP (половно возило од увоз од Словенија)
Кога ја купи татко ми и ми даваше да ја возам, а немав возено други возила освен Фичо, Југо итн. за мене колава беше сон.
Кога положив и извозив повеќе коли, сфатив дека колава е ЛИМЕНКА, во права смисла на зборот.
Опрема - НИШТО. Се вози на плин, единствена работа е што е до негде да речам економична. Троши 8 литра плин.
Ама за жал на отворено кога претицуваш без да смениш брзина скоро и е невозможно. Над 90 кога возиш веќе е бучен моторот, а држење темпо 120/140 е веќе скапо за џебот оти тогаш троши 13-15 литра...
Дефекти што јас ги знам од кога е купена:
Палење (цел сет рикна)
Бомбина
2 Сета Ламела
5 сајли за кумплуг (се додека не наместивме некоја оргинална самоштелувачка што фала богу функционира)
Шминкање ( полумесеци рѓосани )
3 пати МАП СЕНЗОР за плин. (200 евра потрошени само на мап сензори -.-)
Пумпа за гориво
2 грани за издув и на крај комплетно нов издув
Во принцип не би се жалел оти татко ми ја одржава, да беше моја веќе ќе ја возеше некој друг, ама барем имам нешто да возам, се надевам за некоја година ќе можам да си купам сам тоа што си го имам замислено, па и ќе го претставам овде.. Засега ќе терам со упаљачов

Тоа е тоа...

Успут, Мазда 6, од 2009та па наваму:

What to watch out for
Engine undertray collects floodwater or water from large puddles and is pulled off the car. Needs a hole cut into it for trapped water to drain.

No spare wheel, just a puncture repair kit. But full size steel spare available from Mazda for £70.

2.0 litre diesel can suffer same DPF problem of contaminated engine oil as previous Mazda 6 diesel.
2.0 litre diesels with DPFs are suffering contaminated oil and raised oil levels that can lead to engine damage. The dip stick has a Low, Full and X mark. Between L and F is 1cm and then X is 6cm above Full. The handbook says do not fill past X or you could damage the engine, yet unused fuel gets deposited in the sump by the DPF. So crucial to check the oil level at least weekly, and it it starts to rise towards X, book the car in to your Mazda dealer. It may be that an ECU software upgrade can cure this, and the engine will need an oil change anyway.
Some owners believe the 2.0 diesels are not suitable for town and/or stop start driving as the build up of particulates cannot be removed and contaminates the engine with diesel fuel, leading to costly engine replacements or 3,500 mile oil changes. More on this problem and how to avoid it in the DPF FAQ answer on this website.
20-04-2011: Supposed not to be a problem with 2.2 diesel as it has a different 'closed loop' type of DPF, yet to regenerate its DPF, even the 2.2 diesel must run at no less than 2,000rpm for 20 minutes . On a Mazda 2.2 diesel that is 75 mph in 6th gear, though obviously less in 4th or 5th. The car supposedly has 12,500 mile oil change intervals but is likely to dilute and contaminate its engine oil with diesel long before that, so the oil level needs constantly checking. CRUCIAL TO REGULARLY CHECK THE ENGINE OIL LEVEL.

14-03-2011: TPMS tyre valves are prone to failure from mixed metal corrosion.
28-05-2011: Apparently some cars have cracks in the rubber boot button, sometimes very fine, that let in moisture and then lead to the boot opening or remaining shut and cause a battery leakdown.
31-05-2011: 2.0 litre diesel DPF removal service: www.sinspeed.co.uk , but, unfortunately, this is outlawed by EC rules about removal of anti emission equipment that could feed through to the UK MoT.
5-2-2012: Timing chains of 2.2 diesels are stretching.
5-2-2012: DPFs failing to regenerate can bring numerous other problems: DPF Blockage (Loss Of Power, Warning Lights On Dash, Limp Mode); Stuck In Regen Mode (Dumps Diesel In Oil + Reduces Oil Lubrication); Blocks EGR valve (Carbon Backup); Backpressure Destroys Turbo (Carbon Backup); Carbon Backup Damages Injectors; Carbon Backup Damages Engine Seals & can cause overpressurising
17-7-2012: DPFs of 2.2 diesel continuing to fail, resulting in total engine failure if the oil/fuel level in the engine is not checked and addressed. Today had notification of another 2.2 diesel engine failure at 36,500, but at the time of failure the engine contained 8.5 litres of fuel/oil mixture so the driver had obviously not checked the oil level.
22-5-2013: DPF problem with 65k mile 2.2 diesel attributed by dealer to stretched timing chain.
7-6-2013: Seems to be a problem of the timing chain of the 2.2 diesel wearing against the engine block creating swarf that eventually blocks oilways. Happened to a reader's 46k mile 2009/59.
21-11-2013: In contrast to the reports of DPF problems, RA of Kirkcudbright has a 2011 Mazda 6 2.2 180PS diesel that has done 120k miles with no DPF problems at all and which he describes as "totally bomb proof."
24-11-2013: Previously unexplained reason for contaminated sumps on Mazda 6 diesels: If the engine management system hasn't been properly informed that the 12,000 mile service has been done, the PDF light comes on & 'regeneration' starts (= putting diesel to burn off the PDF debris, which also contaminates the engine oil.). Sometimes dealers fail to do this resulting in endless DPF regeneration.
28-1-2014: Injector seal failed on 43k mile 2009 Mazda 6 2.2 185PS diesel, leading to total engine failure and a potential bill of £7,600. Eventually, Mazda offered £3,800 towards the repair.
1-3-2014: Problems caused by blocked oil strainer in Mazda 2.2 diesel with full service history and low to medium mileage. Oil light came on. Garage dropped sump and found the strainer was carbonised. Cleaned it, flushed the old oil. 2,000 miles later oil light on again. Diesel specialist diagnosed the cause of oil deterioration to be is leaking injector seals. Lot of debris in oil strainer: carbon again and also metal filings. Mazda has issued a service bulletin to check oil strainers but the damage has already been done in many cars that are now 3 or 4 years old.
3-3-2014: Yet another 2008-2012 Mazda 6 2.2 diesel engine failure reported, this on a 53k miles 2009 car. First warning lights, followed by an oil and filter change, but light remained on. Seems to be the same oil strainer problem.
13-11-2014: 62,500 mile 2008 Mazda 6 diesel suffered fuel injector seal failure resulting in carbon contamination of the engine and a blocked oil strainer. No metal shards in strainer but strainer can't be replaced or cleaned and engine needs a new "lower engine panel" at around £680, which will take six hours to fit.
12-6-2015: Report of used 78k mile 2011 Mazda 6 needing a new steering rack prioer to sale due to a faulty torque sensor (steering angle sensor?). Apparently this is fairly common.
2-8-2015: Another case of a Mazda 6 2.2 diesel failing to regenerate its DPF and instead filling its sump with diesel then running on its sump oil until it blew up.
7-9-2015: Two Mazda 6 2.2 diesel bought by the same owner suffered clogging of the oil strainer in the sump during the same year. First car successfully rejected. 2nd car failed at 36,200 miles.
8-9-2016: Oil pressure light came on in 2010 Mazda 6 Sport diesel at around 66,000 miles. Found to be due to blocked sump oil strainer so engine had been running inadequately lubricated. Also had a seized injector which may have been contaminating the subp oil with diesel. Dealer said new engine needed.

VW Passat (2005-2008):

What to watch out for
Complaint in February 2008 of failure of fuel tank lifter pumps for 2.0 TDIs and a shortage of replacement parts putting cars off the road for several weeks.

A lot of problems with self-cleaning particulate filters of TDI 170s because of the cycle the car has to be driven through for it to self clean which makes these cars totally unsuitable for city centre use in heavy traffic.

Turbo failures on TDI 170s.
The oil pump problem. Report from USA of oil pump/balancer shaft chain of 2.0 TDI failing at 80k - 100k miles. Early 2.0TDIs PD 140s and PD 170s with balancer shafts (up to end of 2005) have a chain drive to the oil pump and the chain drive can eventually snap. Later cars have a hexagonal shaft positive drive to the oil pump that is also a problem. Failed oil pump drives totally wreck the engines and if the car has not been 100% VAG maintained, VAG will not pay. Later oil pumps (from 2006) are driven from a balancer shaft via a short hexagonal shaft. The peaks of this hexagonal shaft locate in six corresponding but minute grooves machined within the otherwise circular-bored oil pump drive shaft. Thus, the oil pump drive relies entirely on an interference fit of little more than 0.010" along the peaks of the hexagonal shaft. After about 50,000 miles, the shaft can round off, resulting in a totally destroyed engine and turbo, plus a bill of up to £9,000. If the danger is known and the oil pump is removed by the garage in good time, a new replacement pump will cost over £500, plus the labour etc to remove and refit it. However, it is also possible to save the old pump and modify the drive at a fraction of the cost of a new one. Many local machine shops already have numbers of these pumps in for such rectification, the drive shaft of each having been on the point of rounding off. The non balancer shaft BKD, AZV and BMN 2.0 engines (which found their way into the 2.0 PD Octavia, A3, Golf, and various SEATs) used a chain driven oil pump very similar, but not identical, to the old 1.9 130hp PD engine. This never seems to give any problems. It's the balancer shafts that cause the problems on the 'posher' VAG 2.0 PD diesels eg Passat, A4, Superb. This 2.0 PD differs from the 1.9 in having twin Lanchester balancing shafts which contra-rotate at 2x crank speed. The first engines used a chain drive which was a complete disaster and the later engines a shaft drive. All 2.0 PD got the shaft drive towards the end of 2005. The problem with the 2.0 PD engine is the drive from the slave balancer shaft to the oil pump, which is a piece of 6 AF hexagonal bar that has inadequate engagement depth with the grooves in the slave shaft. It's the torsional oscillations caused by the balance shafts which destroy the oil pump coupling (the 6mm AF bit of hex) and the chain drive to the balancer shafts before the gear driven systems came out, though these still give problems with the hex key rounding. This creates a lack of concentricity of the drive socket into which the drive rod/hex fits. Checking shows that all the drive sockets in the failed units were off centre by at least 0.1mm. All the replacement balancer units were dead centre and have not led to a repeat failure. Some replacement balancer units have now done 100k+ miles. You will probably get this problem at some point if you have a 2006-2008 Passat 2.0TDi with balancer shafts. If your 2.0TDi does NOT have balancer shafts, you will be ok. If you fit the lastest balancer shaft/ pump assembley from VAG it will more than likely cure the problem for life as they have made the hex longer and centered it all properly. CR piezo injected engines are safe. Anything before that, Audi/VAG wont say when they started to fit the modified units that work properly.
Same door locking windows opening fault as on old Passat due to water ingress to the locking ECU in the driver's door or owners misunderstanding the keyfob functions. Tailgate lock of estate also prone to problems.

Spate of failures of fuel tank lifter pumps, sometimes described as "tandem pumps", on 2.0TDI has led to a shortage of the part and may eventually lead to a TSB. The mythical cause put about on forums is gasket failure of the main fuel pump body joint, which allows engine oil to contaminate the recirculation line back to the main tank, in turn causing failure of the Lifter Pump. This is a myth. The real reason is the Italian made pumps going 'open circuit' after a period of use. Some cars off the road for 6 weeks waiting for parts, but by early May 2008 new pumps were coming through. More on this at www.audivwforum.co.uk

29-3-2010:"I own a 2006 VW Passat SEL diesel 170BHP DSG with Sports suspension and lots of extras with 63000 miles on the clock and 6months out of warranty. The car is great to drive but having had 8 Passats over the last 25years, this one has been nothing but trouble. It has had 2 new turbos, a new DSG box and approx 12 other replacements some on recall and not all minor. A few days ago it died after running for 5 miles. The local VW franchise said the tandem pump had failed leading to a fuel pump failure, an injector failure and a wiring loom failure! £1500 plus to put right."
Mechatronic unit problems with DSG/S-tronic can case an initial delay when setting off followed by a sudden surge. A replacement Mechatronic unit cures this. See www.DSGwoes.co.uk . In the USA, VAG has been forced to increase the warranty on the DSG/S-tronic to 10 years.

2005 VW Passat 2.0 TDI, a company car, regularly maintained by Fleet approved garages, 88,000 miles in December 2009 oil pressure warning light came on, oil top up did not help. Garage diagnosed oil pump failure, and when they contacted VW for the replacement part were told that it is a known issue with all VW/Audi 2.0 Turbodiesels and a modified part should be fitted as well as the replacement pump. (possibly referred to the 2005/6 models , not sure). So, new parts fitted £850 plus labour, but of course turbo had failed as well due to oil starvation, so that had to be replaced as well £1200 plus labour.
Numerous reports of 2007 2.0TDI PD engines losing coolant. Diagnosis reveals porous cylinder heads. VW remedy is a complete new £5,000 engine with no goodwill assistance provided if the car has been serviced outside the VW dealer network.

Итн итн.

[LosiPatista]

Џоле, Пошто си понов, ќе ти го повторам делот за поправките. ЗНачи рачунај го бензинецот како дизел+свекици(100евра), бобини(400евра), кабли(100евра), палење, електронска клапна (550) за регулација на моторот, степ мотор (300). Минус греачи од 100 евра. Тоа е разликата.

Ако мааните ги средиш со 6 или повеќе цилиндри, опрости се од економичност и ефтини поправки

Така е. 50% поголема потрошувачка, 2x поскап за поправки ако дојде до тоа.  Но ти не би зел 6 цилиндри?

Vele бе, уште ли не си разбрал дека 2.0 TDI PD 170 е мотор кој не издржува 10.000км без ремонт? Тоа е најсјајниот FehlerWagеn бисер

[Simo - Carrier159]

Секако. Бензинец... https://youtu.be/IPolpuYsZvY?t=57

[velestrumf]

Џоле, Пошто си понов, ќе ти го повторам делот за поправките. ЗНачи рачунај го бензинецот како дизел+свекици(100евра), бобини(400евра), кабли(100евра), палење, електронска клапна (550) за регулација на моторот, степ мотор (300). Минус греачи од 100 евра. Тоа е разликата.

Ако мааните ги средиш со 6 или повеќе цилиндри, опрости се од економичност и ефтини поправки

Така е. 50% поголема потрошувачка, 2x поскап за поправки ако дојде до тоа.  Но ти не би зел 6 цилиндри?

Vele бе, уште ли не си разбрал дека 2.0 TDI PD 170 е мотор кој не издржува 10.000км без ремонт? Тоа е најсјајниот FehlerWagеn бисер

Ѕвер си бе да сибеш... Би рушел рекорди у берење цреши.

[tjolie]

Не знам, јас стара кола никогаш не би зел дизел, особено не некоја градска кола до 150коња и 2000 кубика, и така потрошувачката и на дизел и на бензин не е голема, ама разликата во стари делови од дизел и бензин е значително голема. За џип, трактор, караван 3.0 200кс јесте дизел, ама за градска кола дизел... никако. Тоа е барем мое мислење што сум читал и што ми кажувале

[LosiPatista]

Ѕвер си бе да сибеш... Би рушел рекорди у берење цреши.

Ова е твоја експертска проценка као професионалец со долгогодишно искуство? Фала
КОлку ќе ме плаќаат во Германија?

[velestrumf]

Ќе те депортираат.

[LosiPatista]

Знам. Они сакаат озбилни, намуртени и себични типови без смисла на хумор.

[Tischläufer]

Знам. Они сакаат озбилни, намуртени и себични типови без смисла на хумор.

Па шо си стаил баш таков аватар, види се на што личиш